Breeding Bunnies
First of All - Understand that breeding a pet just for fun is not recommended. Non-pedigreed, un-showable, and un-socialized bunnies are filling up the shelters already, please don’t add to it.
So why am I supplying you with this information?
Because serious breeders are a great addition to this world. Because un-known baby bunnies can be a hassal
and so you’ll understand that breeders take an effort when they breed bunnies.
The Basics -
Are Your Rabbits Ready to Mate?
Depending on your breeds - rabbits are ready to mate at 5 - 8 months old.
The buck usually is perfectly willing to mate. I’ve never had a problem with this, and I don’t know what would cause it besides a split penis.
The doe is a different matter. Does will only mate every 14 days out of 16. So if she doesn’t mate try it three days in a row. Also make sure she’s not over-weight.
A quick way to see if your doe will easily mate is run your hand down her back. If she raises her tail she’ll take easily.
You can also check the color of her vent area. Swollen and pinkish or purplish means she’ll take.
Mating the rabbits
Some simple guidlines will help this happen.
Place the doe in the bucks cage or in a run with the buck. Never place the buck in the doe’s cage. she will most likely hurt him.
Watch the two rabbits. If the doe continually runs away from the buck she probably won’t take. period. you can try again later. This happened with my first litter. Sometimes a month’s difference will make the doe take.
If the doe lets the buck mount he’ll most likely make a grunting sound and pull out some fur if he’s sucessful.
You can check the vent area to see if it’s wet.
If you want a larger litter or aren’t sure if she took. You can put them back together again in a few hours. No more than 8!
Pregnancy - immediately after the mating mark 31 days later - this is the doe’s due date
Most likely your doe will become grumpy. She will get fatter, less active and sit still a lot.
Around day 10 of the pregnancy you should palpate her.
Palpating:
This is a simple process but can be tricky if you’re not use to it.
Place the doe on a table. Then gently feel her abdomen area for small little marbles. They’d be about the size of a grape. These are the kits heads. Don’t panic too much if you can’t feel them. With my first litter I couldn’t. But the doe had 4 kits.
You’ll want to give the doe food with 17% protein and lots of timothy hay to munch on.
4 days from the the due date you want to place a nesting box in the rabbit cage.
A nestbox can be contructed or bought - contact me for more information
A doe may build her nest a week or an hour before she has the kits - but if kits are born on the wire they may freeze.
Birth
Most does birth without a problem and do it at night.
However, if a doe has problems - look in the “Digging Deeper” section for more information.
Growing Up
The kits will be born naked and blind.
At about a week, you should be able to see their color and their eyes will open.
At about two weeks they should hop out of the nestbox
At three to four weeks you can flip the nestbox over on it’s side and they’ll start eating solid food.
At five to six weeks you can start weaning the kits
At eight weeks the kits are old enough to be sold.
There you have it!
You’ve had a litter!
If you want more information look at:
Digging Deeper
